Spring Milk Camembert – a Seasonal Delight

Camembert cheese is one of the most beloved symbols of French culinary tradition. This soft, creamy delight from Normandy is an important part of any decent cheese platter at the end of a classic French dinner. 

But there is one particular type of cheese I prefer over any other: Camembert, made from spring milk. It is only available for a short time in spring and will surprise you with unique flavors. The fresh grass emerging after a long winter influences the milk's taste and aroma, resulting in a distinct profile and an exciting wildness.

Spring milk camembert is only available for about two to three months in spring, so I recommend looking for it in your favorite cheese store between March and June.

But there is a lot more to know about this kind of cheese. In this article, I will cover the story behind Camembert, its origins, and the various types. Knowing the differences will help you select the right one and develop a deeper appreciation for this remarkable cheese.

The Origins of Authentic Camembert Cheese

Compared to Italian Pecorino cheese and French Roquefort, which have histories of about 2,000 resp. 1,000 years, Camembert cheese is a recent addition to the table. Legend has it that Marie Harel, a farmer’s wife, created the first version in 1791, refining methods she learned from a priest in the Brie region. The cheese quickly gained popularity, especially during the Napoleonic era, when it was said to be a favorite of Napoleon III himself.

With its velvety texture and earthy, mushroom-like notes, Camembert is more than just a cheese—it has become a cultural icon. 

Variations

There are several variations, but you may not be able to find all of them. Traditional camembert is made from raw milk, and you can get it when you are lucky enough to live in France or some countries in the EU. Many countries do not allow the import of it or impose restrictions like a minimum maturity of 60 days, which is already pretty close to the expiration date.

The alternative is camembert, made with pasteurized milk, readily available in better supermarkets.

Brie vs. Camembert

Both are great French cheeses. They look somewhat similar, but there are differences:

• Origin: Camembert is made in Normandy, Brie in Isle de France
• Flavor: Brie is milder due to higher fat content
• Size: Brie is sold in larger wheels
• Ripening: Brie ripens longer than Camembert

Why don't you try them side by side?

Traditional Camembert de Normandie

Normandie is a region in the northwest of France, blessed with a temperate oceanic climate and fertile pastures. The milk from Normande cows, a breed known for its rich milk with a high butterfat and protein content, is of exceptional quality.Camembert cheese is produced in several villages in the area, notably Camembert, which gave the name to this beloved cheese.

Camembert de Normandie holds the prestigious Appellation d’Origine Protégée (AOP) designation, a mark of authenticity that ensures the cheese is made according to time-honored traditions in this region. The AOP designation goes beyond branding; it guarantees authenticity and recognizes traditional artisan cheesemaking. 

The fat content is typically 45% in the dry mass but can vary with the seasons.

The criteria to qualify for the AOP designation are:

• Production must take place within the Normandy region.
• Cheese must be made from raw milk derived from at least 50% Normande cows.
• Traditional methods must be employed throughout production.

Common Camembert

Traditional camembert is difficult or impossible to get in many countries because of its raw milk content. However, cheese made from pasteurized milk is widely available. Pasteurization does impact its taste and flavor profile, but if you choose the product of a reputed company, you can still enjoy a great cheese to complement your dinner. Most better supermarkets will offer a reasonable choice.

Among the good brands I can find in Tokyo are Camembert d'Isigny, Le Rustique, or Faucon.

Young Camembert offers a creamy texture with hints of sweetness. The flavor profile is earthy and mushroomy, and the texture is pleasantly creamy, especially in young Camembert, without being greasy at all. It doesn't match the complex flavors of raw milk, but it is still very satisfying.

Aged cheeses develop deeper, richer flavors with complex earthy undertones.

The fat content is similar to the traditional version, about 45% in the dry mass.

Spring Milk Camembert

This is my absolute favorite for its outstanding taste. It is available only for a short time in spring each year. 

Again, if you are outside of Europe, the raw milk version will remain a dream for you. But I found the spring milk camembert made by Le Rustique very pleasing, even though it is made from pasteurized milk.

Spring milk is produced during the lush, green spring months when pastures are abundant with fresh grass, and cows are happy to go outside again after the winter. This seasonal milk is creamier and has a sweeter, more vibrant taste due to the diverse flora of spring. It has a higher nutritional content and is richer in beta-carotene, which does affect color and taste.

The result is a cheese with a creamy texture and a unique flavor profile that reflects the vibrancy of spring itself.

Triple Cream Camembert

Triple cream Camembert is a richer version because of added cream, boasting around 75% fat content compared to traditional Camembert’s 45%. It may sound enticing but it is not an authentic representation of this beloved French cheese.

This variation is popular in the US and often the only one you can find in supermarkets.

Frankly, I do not like it.  I find that the greasiness masks the delicate flavors characteristic of traditional Camembert. The flavors become too subdued, even to the extent of being boring. And the excessive greasiness lingers on your palate and blocks any further taste sensations.

Baked Camembert

Baking or frying camembert may be a reasonable way to deal with cheese you must get rid of as it is past its expiration date. It's a reasonable way to use triple cream camembert, which you may have bought by mistake. Don't treat a quality cheese with so much disrespect: It's a culinary sin.

The result looks like this, which I find most unappetizing:

How Camembert is made

The production process for all types of camembert is basically the same, except that traditional camembert requires the use of raw milk.

• Raw cow’s milk is gently heated to the optimal temperature, ensuring beneficial bacteria can thrive.
• Specific cultures are added to the milk, which is crucial for developing the unique flavors characteristic of Camembert.
• Rennet, an enzyme, is added, causing the milk to curdle. 
• The curds are placed into molds, allowing them to drain the whey naturally. This step shapes the cheese into wheels and begins its journey toward becoming Camembert.
• After draining, the cheese is salted to enhance flavor and act as a preservative.
• The cheese is transferred to humidity-controlled caves, where it undergoes a ripening process that lasts for at least 21 days. During this time, it develops its characteristic distinctive bloomy rind and complex flavors.  

The traditional method allows for greater microbial diversity during aging, resulting in a more nuanced flavor profile.

How to Enjoy Camembert

To truly appreciate traditional Camembert, serve it at room temperature. It will melt in your mouth, allowing its flavors to blossom fully. 

The aroma is earthy and slightly pungent, with hints of mushrooms and slightly nutty tones. On the palate, it offers a complex interplay of flavors with a finish that evokes the terroir of Normandy.

Don't be afraid to eat the rind. The white, bloomy rind is generated by a fungus (penicillium camemberti). It is edible and enhances the tasting experience by adding textural contrast.

Food Pairings

Here are a few common suggestions by foodies you may want to experiment with: 

• Cured Meats: Prosciutto or salami can add a savory kick that compliments the soft, buttery texture of your Camembert.
• Fruits: Fresh berries or slices of ripe pear bring a touch of sweetness that can elevate the cheese's floral notes.
• Honey or Jam: A drizzle of honey or a smear of fig jam adds sweetness.
• Nuts: Roasted hazelnuts or pistachios add a crunch and a pleasant bitterness to balance the creaminess.

I pass on these recommendations as I do not see the need to pair a good camembert with anything except with some bit of a crusty baguette. The only acceptable excuse for adding other items would be that the cheese is already beyond its prime and needs some pepping up.

Beverage Pairings

You may often hear the recommendation to pair with Champagne or a dry white wine. There are good arguments for that. The champagne bubbles cut through the richness, enhancing each bite. There is nothing wrong with that if you have just a camembert dinner. I would also add Orange wine as an option, which has a bit more body and earthy flavor to match.

But you probably have your cheese at the end of a meal, not just one kind of cheese but hopefully a gorgeous cheese platter. You will most likely have had a nice red wine during the meal and before the cheese is served. And now you want to change to Champagne or white wine? Come on, be realistic. Just stay with the wine you are drinking.

Storing and Caring for Camembert

Camembert is sold wrapped in wax paper and often in a wooden box, made from thin wooden sheets. This packaging is designed to keep the cheese in its best condition. Keep it that way until you use it.

Be aware that Camembert is alive and will continue to mature even after you buy it. It is therefore essential to check the expiration date on the package. Store it in a cool but not too cold place. The regular fridge may be too cold; that's why I prefer to store soft cheeses in the vegetable compartment of the fridge. Too cold and a good camembert will die.

Since Triple cream camembert has a lot less life in it, you can safely put it in the fridge.

Fresh Camembert, especially the spring milk version, emits a strong smell that can affect everything else in your fridge. A cheese dome is a good solution to prevent that.

Camembert has a relatively short shelf life—typically 1 to 2 weeks after purchase. Signs that it’s past its prime include an overly pungent ammonia smell, a hardened or darkened rind, or red or brown spots on the rind. A paste that has become too runny is not necessarily a concern; it's part of maturing and I like the gooey consistency.  When in doubt, trust your senses.