When I first came to Japan many years ago, sushi and ramen were at the top of my to-eat list—and they still are. Luckily, a good friend took me to a Yakitori bar, and I was immediately sold on yet another part of Japanese cuisine. Yakitori is an important part of Japanese cuisine and a culinary experience that is not to be missed. I recommend you give it a try, too.
Yakitori are Japanese grilled chicken skewers. They are often grilled on charcoal and seasoned with salt or tare, a delicate, slightly sweet sauce. Many different parts of the chicken are used, some of which you may not even have heard of. It has nothing to do with fried or grilled chicken we know in the West.
Read on for a comprehensive guide.
From Street Food to Culinary Art
The history of yakitori dates back to the Meiji period (1868-1912), a time marked by significant cultural and social transformations in Japan. During this era, eating meat became more widely accepted, paving the way for dishes like yakitori to become popular with ordinary citizens. Street vendors began grilling skewered chicken pieces over charcoal-fired pits and selling them to hungry passersby. These portable snacks were popular among laborers and travelers for their convenience and delicious flavor.
Yakitori's evolution continued and gained traction, especially after World War II. The post-war period saw an increased demand for affordable and accessible food. Over time, yakitori evolved from a humble street food into a refined culinary art form.
Yakitori started as a beloved street food, but in modern times, it has evolved into a gourmet delight in upscale restaurants. This development was supported by the greater availability of prime-quality domestically produced chicken.
You can still find it as street food and enjoy the street food ambiance of bygone days at local temple and shrine festivals. But if you want a truly gourmet experience, you should try a decent yakitori restaurant. Currently, six Yakitori restaurantsin Japan have earned a Michelin star. If budget is a concern, seven are listed in the Bib Gourmand category that will not break the bank and will not disappoint you.
Exploring Different Types of Yakitori Skewers
The variety of yakitori is amazing. If you are only familiar with the chicken parts you get at KFC, you are in for a surprise. There are at least two dozen different cuts of chicken, including organs. Many of them you will never have heard of. Dining at a Yakitori joint is like a master class in chicken anatomy.
Some of the more exotic ones may be available only in upscale restaurants. In addition to chicken skewers, you may encounter skewers with veggies, different kinds of mushrooms, ginkgo nuts, quail eggs, and more.
The most common Chicken Cuts:
The following are standard items found at most yakitori places. The selection at food stalls of local festivals may be a bit more limited, though.
- Mune (Breast): Lean and delicate, typically served with a light seasoning of salt or tare sauce
- Momo (Thigh): known for its juicy and flavorful texture
- Sasami (Chicken tenderloin): a lean and tender cut from the inner breast with a dollop of wasabi
- Kawa (Skin): Crispy, rich, and incredibly flavorful when grilled to golden perfection
- Negima: Alternating pieces of chicken and green onions, creating a harmonious blend of textures
- Tebasaki (Chicken Wings): Crispy exterior with succulent meat, a favorite among yakitori enthusiasts
- Sunagimo (Gizzard): appreciated for its crunchy, firm texture
- Reba (Liver): Creamy and rich, often seasoned with tare sauce for depth of flavor
- Tsukune (Minced chicken meatballs): sometimes containing crunchy bits of cartilage
- Hatsu (Heart): prized for its unique springy texture
- Shiro reba (Fatty Liver): the chicken equivalent of Foie Gras
- Nankotsu (Cartilage): usually from the knee or breastbone, noted for its crunchy texture
Specialty Cuts
A few of the following cuts are very difficult to find and may be available only at high-end places.
- Tamahimo (Undeveloped chicken eggs): not found everywhere
- Chōchin or Lantern (ovary with undeveloped chicken eggs): heavenly when the yolk breaks in your mouth
- Seseri (Neck): chewy mouthfeel and rich flavor
- Bonjiri (Tail): high-fat content and unique flavor
- Kanmuri or Tosaka (Chicken comb}: a very rare delicacy rich in collagen
Vegetables and Other Ingredients in Yakitori
Yakitori isn't just about chicken; vegetable skewers in yakitori are equally delightful and provide a refreshing balance to the rich meat flavors. They increase the variety of textures and tastes to complement the savory chicken skewers and give your taste buds a little break during a meal.
Here are some popular options you can include in your yakitori:
- Shishito Peppers: Mildly spicy peppers that are perfect when charred over the grill
- Mushrooms: Varieties like shiitake and enoki mushrooms bring an earthy depth to your yakitori experience
- Bell Peppers: Colorful bell peppers add sweetness and a slight crunch
- Asparagus: Grilled asparagus spears offer a tender yet crisp bite
- Cherry Tomatoes: Juicy and slightly acidic, cherry tomatoes burst with flavor when grilled
- Ginnan (Gingko nuts): Creamy texture with a well-balanced bitterness
These skewers are often seasoned with the same shio (salt) or tare (sauce) as the chicken skewers, ensuring they harmonize well on your plate. They enhance the meal aesthetically and provide a more rounded and healthy dining experience.
The Keys to Delicious Yakitori
The most important factors for delicious yakitori are the quality of ingredients, namely chicken, and the grilling technique.
The quality of chicken in Japan is generally very high, even in the lower-price segment dominated by imports. About 40% of chicken meat is imported to Japan, mainly from Brazil, Thailand, and China, with the US share of only about 1%.
Domestically bred, non-branded chicken is in the medium price range and can be easily found in any local supermarket. I admit to going to KFC occasionally, where I have seen them proudly displaying that they use chicken from the Iwate Prefecture, which is well known for its quality products.
Top quality chicken
Jidori (local chickens with a brand status) top the chicken hierarchy in price and quality and must meet strictly controlled standards.
Therequirements include:
- At least 50% bloodline from 38 native chicken breeds established in the Meiji era
- Chickens must be raised for at least 75 days
- Free-range conditions with less than 10 chickens per square meter after 28 days
- Specific breeding and care protocols with priority on chicken health.
Careful Raising Techniques and Feeding
Japanese chicken farmers focus intensely on creating low-stress environments for chickens. A typical example is the KumanoJidori chicken, which is raised in quiet mountain settings with carefully selected and antibiotic-free feed, including local ingredients like regional rice and fruit peels. This approach minimizes stress and enhances meat quality.
The result is chicken meat that is notably different from standard commercial chickens - with characteristics like chewiness, rich flavor, minimal odor, and superior nutritional content. Top Japanese and international chefs praise these chickens for their exceptional quality.
Grilling Technique and the Right Charcoal
Grilling the delicate chicken pieces requires the utmost concentration. The sewers have to be constantly turned over at the right distance from the glowing charcoal. Chicken liver requires a different heat level than other pieces, like chicken wings or cartilage. Too much heat will dry out the pieces and ruin the experience. On the other hand, you don't want to have undercooked chicken, either.
Watching a skilled Yakitori chef will make you realize that it is an art form.
The choice of charcoal is another cornerstone of yakitori’s unique flavor profile. Grilling over quality charcoal beats grilling over gas any time.
The ultimate choice of charcoal is binchotan. This type of charcoal is made from Japanese oak and is known for producing exceptionally high and steady heat. Yakitori chefs can precisely control the temperature and grill the meat evenly. Binchotan also burns cleaner and adds a subtle smokiness to the food without overpowering the natural flavor of the chicken parts.
The high heat from the charcoal sears the meat quickly, sealing in juices and creating a delightful contrast between crispy skin and tender interior.
How to Eat Yakitori
Relax. Eating Yakitori does not require any superior skills. Even in an upscale Yakitori restaurant, you can pick up the skewers by hand. The first two or three pieces on a skewer of Negima or Tsukune are easy to take off with your teeth. The last pieces higher up on the skewer, you can push them down with your chopsticks for easy reach.
If you want, you can also remove all the pieces by pushing them with your chopsticks onto your plate. You then discard the empty sticks in the provided cup.
The chef already seasoned the yakitori skewers with sea salt or tare. Tare is a slightly sweet and savory sauce made from soy sauce, mirin, and possibly some secret ingredient, depending on the chef. You can add some red-colored Shijimi (a hot Japanese spice mix) or green-colored Sansho (a Japanese pepper, similar to Szechuan pepper, but milder).
What to drink with Yakitori
Whatever you like works fine. You can choose between beer, sake, shochu, and even wine in most places.
I usually start with a small draft beer and then switch to cold sake, preferably a dry one. If you are unsure which one to select, you can always ask the staff for a recommendation. I love the combination of grilled skewers and sake, which creates a harmonious balance of flavors. Sake also helps to cleanse the palate between each flavorful bite of yakitori, allowing you to fully savor every skewer.
Where to Enjoy This Culinary Delight in Japan?
Street food
Yakitori is an inexpensive and popular snack at local street festivals, shrines, or temples. These events are held throughout the country, especially in the summertime.
These festivals are a lot of fun but don't expect the yakitori to be on a true gourmet level.
Izakayas
Another fun place to have a casual dining experience is an Izakaya. Izakayas are informal pubs that serve alcoholic drinks and various popular tapas-style snacks. They are lively spots to unwind and socialize with friends and coworkers after a long day at the office.
Yakitori is a standard item on the menu but can vary widely in quality. In many of these places, the focus is more on drinking than on a culinary experience.
Yakitori-ya for a Gourmet Experience
Yakitori-ya are specialized restaurants dedicated to serving the best Yakitori. These establishments often have an open kitchen where you can sit at the counter and watch the skilled chefs grill the skewers over hot charcoal. A seat at the counter is my favorite spot as it allows me to observe the grilling process up close and connect with the chef.
The menu usually features a variety of chicken parts, along with some vegetable options.
Most restaurants offer various traditional or experimental side dishes besides chicken skewers, which are worth exploring. For me, this is reminiscent of the tapas culture, which I enjoyed in Spain.
My favorite Yakitori Restaurant
Having been in Tokyo for quite some time now, I have had the chance to sample yakitori in various places and all price categories.
It seems to be a given that when you spend a lot of money, you will have a guaranteed gourmet experience. But let me tell you that with less than 50 bucks per person, including drinks, you can have a very satisfying experience.
One of these places is Momofuku, located in a dark corner of the popular downtown area of Ningyocho. They are open only four days a week on a reservation-only basis. You have to plan ahead as you might get a reservation only in a week or two, especially when you want one of the seven seats at the counter. By the way, I took all the photos in this post there.
Address: 2 Chome-26-14 Nihonbashi Ningyocho, Chuo-ku, Tokyo. Phone: 03-6661-6422
The closest subway stations are Ningyocho (Hibiya and Toei Asakusa Lines), Hamacho (Toei Shinjuku Line), and Suitengumae (Hanzomon Line).
Popular Yakitori Locations in Japan You Shouldn't Miss
There is no shortage of great Yakitori places in Tokyo, Osaka, and many other places around Japan. Here is just a tiny selection of notable places where you can enjoy it in the context of Japanese popular culture.
But if you want to upgrade your culinary experience, you should also go to a more upscale yakitori restaurant. There are currently six Yakitori restaurants in Japan with a Michelin star. If you are budget-minded, you are also not out of luck. Seven are listed in the Bib Gourmand category. They will not break the bank and will not disappoint you.
Omoide Yokocho in Shinjuku
One of the best places for yakitori is undoubtedly Omoide Yokocho in Shinjuku. Known as "Memory Lane," this quaint alleyway is packed with tiny eateries offering delicious and affordable yakitori. As you walk through, you'll be enveloped by the enticing aroma of grilling meat. Each small establishment has its unique take on this beloved dish, making it a paradise for food enthusiasts.
Gādo-shita in Yurakucho
Another iconic spot is Gādo-shita, located under the elevated train tracks between the Yurakucho and Shinbashi stations. This area is close to the Marunouchi business district and is famous for bustling yakitori-ya, which offer an easy-going and nostalgic atmosphere. It's a popular hangout for local office workers and offers an authentic feeling of Tokyo's after-hours culture.
Other Notable Locations Across Japan
- Pontocho Alley in Kyoto: Known for its traditional teahouses and restaurants, Pontocho offers excellent yakitori options in a historic setting.
- Dotonbori in Osaka: Famous for its vibrant street food scene, Dotonbori features numerous stalls and izakayas serving mouthwatering yakitori.
- Hakata in Fukuoka: Renowned for its rich culinary culture, Hakata provides some of the best chicken skewers with unique regional flavors.
These locations are not just about food; they offer an immersive experience of Japanese culture and social dining and drinking practices. Whether you're exploring the nooks and crannies of Shinjuku or enjoying the lively atmosphere under Yurakucho's train tracks, these spots are essential stops on your yakitori adventure.
Can I make Yakitori at Home?
Well, you can certainly cut up a chicken, spear the pieces on a skewer, and throw them on a barbecue. There are many recipes online for making "Yakitori" at home.
But I have to disappoint you; this will be rather a kebab and not an authentic Yakitori. There is a lot more to it. Gathering quality ingredients and mastering the proper grilling techniques is not for amateurs.
Spare yourself and your guests the disappointment. Hop on a plane to Japan and indulge in the real thing.
